Brooker trailer

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Brooker trailer

Postby mward » Mon Apr 18, 2005 9:12 pm

Does anyone have a Brooker trailer MR1516.

There is an entry roller mounted on the rear face of the back cross member. It is not adjustable, and the top of the roller is about 1cm above the member and ends up about 3 cm below the skeg when the boat is loaded.

Consequently, a pair of non adjustable quad rollers, also mounted on the last cross member, support the back half of the boat.

This means the fiberglass is deflecting under the load.

As there is only 4cm clearance between the skeg and the last cross member, there is no room to mount a bolt on bracket for an adjustable roller.

Any ideas?
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Postby fritzelhund » Mon Apr 18, 2005 10:22 pm

Just a few thoughts after looking at your pic.
If the wobble rollers are actually contacting the hull in the "totally parked" position do they flex the hull on its way UP the trailer ?...because of the curvature ( whale belly ) of the hull fore /aft. The hull is deepest about where the axle is , so as you are pulling the boat onto the trailer don't those wobble rollers actually LIFT the entire boat when it is half way on ? and lower it a bit as it gets to the fully on position ?

I reckon the strongest part for rollers to support ( other than the centreline ) must be at the rear of the bunks where the rear floatation tanks start...the hull gets a "cross member" effect there. Where do the front pair of rollers act in the fully on position ? That is the only part other than at the very front where the V berth starts that has a BOX effect.

The Queensland supplied Redco trailers have a wooden beam on each side running fore /aft and about a metre long and pivoted about halfway along their length that support the boat at the end of the bunks position about in line the rear of the centreboard case.

It looks to be nicely gal coated . The wobble rollers may not be adjustable for height, but it looks as though they can be adjusted in or out transversely. I have modified my Redco a little with bolt on bracketry available from boat shops...and have found the bolt on brackets with the nut welded on are not as good as the ones where a nut is just trapped inside the bracket..I like to ditch the Taiwanese quality bolts ( they are about a strong as day old cheese ) and replace the nut and bolts with stainless jobs. If you decide to remove the non adjustable roller they are readily removed with an angle grinder and bolt on bits offer more variation in the "geometry".

I played about with wobble rollers on the back end and ended up because of the whale bellyand lifting problem installing them in front of the trailer axle where they serve to support the "front" end of the hull under the front V bunk bulkhead.
I will be interested to find out what suggestions you get...as we all have a similat shape to contend with. The Redco design , which has double ganged rollers along the rearmost of the ventreline has eleven "contact points" other than the front winch post between the trailer and hull.
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Postby jamesw » Tue Apr 19, 2005 8:49 am

1. Talk to Verne Mould

2. I'd say that you need to urgently fix something. The keel is what should be supported, the side stuff really only holds the boat when launching (thats what I understand). Verne has told me about overflexing at the sides causing cracking.

I think you may be able to get the keel rollers onto a bracket so that they adjust up and down.

J
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Postby watermarkhome » Tue Apr 19, 2005 9:02 pm

I'd think simple and get a bigger, plain cylindrical roller that does contact the skeg without changing anything else. If I couldn't buy a proprietary one I'd have one turned up out of red urethane. Two bob's worth, I've done up 2 Careel trailers and it is never as simple or inexpensive as it seems at first.
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Postby mward » Tue Apr 19, 2005 9:13 pm

Thank you for that input, trailers are a world unto themselves.

The way the brackets are attached to the face of the beam, limits the roller to the standard size. I dont know about trying to weld on a longer bracket.

David Rose was concerned about localised deforming of the fibreglass, presumably regardless of the overall internal 'box' strength.

Vern was the one who drew my attention to the problem, and raised my concern, at the Lake Macquarie cruise.

After long thought, Vern's only approach was to raise the whole boat on the trailer, so that there was sufficient room to fit a roller on the last member. He doubted even if this was an achievable solution.

Judging by the info I got with the boat, it has been like this for at least 5 years, if not 10 years.

The Brooker range of trailers appear to rely on the wobble rollers supporting the hull.

If no one has solved this problem, I will take the rather agricultural solution of fiberglassing a wedge (300mm long) on to the skeg, to coincide with the roller.

Ugh!

Apart from a loss in draft, it might be a 'winged keel' in the making?
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Postby jamesw » Wed Apr 20, 2005 8:14 am

What about a Stem Clamp (Whitworths Summer 04/05 page 77 - item 90941 etc. "Clamps on to box section and allows height and length adjustment without drilling holes".
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Postby Seachange » Wed Apr 20, 2005 1:08 pm

Hi there,

Something that would be a worry to me is the amount of rear overhang of your Careel over the trailer. On most 18's the aft end of the skeg sits on the rear roller. There should be at least 4 rollers under the keel under and about the centreboard. The centreboard should be lowered onto the rollers during transit of the boat - of course remembering to raise it before launch.

The model number 1516 indicates to me that this trailer is built for a 15 or 16 foot boat - probably a powerboat as well....

Maybe the best option will real Careel trailer.

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Postby brennyboy » Wed Apr 20, 2005 1:52 pm

Max
Your right, common sense would suggest that a fair portion of the weight of the boat should be supported on the skeg on the trailer.

I was wondering whether the quad roller roller assemblies could be moved further outwards on their cross members and whether that would lower the hull sufficiently to rest the skeg on the centre roller? Could the centre and forward rollers be adjusted upwards a bit as well?

Also, the question on whether or not your trailer is suitable prompted me to check out Bundy Flyers trailer to see where the back of the skeg was in relation to the rear cross member. From the photo I would say about 10 inches or a foot. It is difficult to see from your photo but it seems similar to where Bundy's was if that is any guide.

If I could, I would respectfully disuade you from fibreglassing the boat to fix a trailer problem!!

Best of luck, I'm sure you'll sort it out.
Last edited by brennyboy on Sun Mar 19, 2006 9:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby jamesw » Thu Apr 21, 2005 6:14 pm

I'd say Brendans suggestion sounds good, move the rollers out which may well let the keel drop onto the rollers.
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Postby JC » Thu Apr 21, 2005 11:52 pm

From the look of things you may not be able to lower the wobble rollers enough to put the skeg to the centreline roller. Maybe get clamp on brackets for the cross member which have the mounts for the double post roller support and spindle. Then you can adjust it up until it supports the skeg properly.

I would not tow any further with the current arrangement... :(
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