Installing sliding hatches in QLD. Whom?

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PaulD
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Installing sliding hatches in QLD. Whom?

Postby PaulD » Fri Sep 30, 2005 9:45 pm

Does someone know who may install the seemingly ubiquitous sliding hatch in or about Brisbane? I am, may I say, blessed, with an 18.

Regards.
Paul D.

jamesw
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Postby jamesw » Sat Oct 01, 2005 7:19 am

I understand that you can still get the kits from the builder, once thats done you can do it yourself or get it done. there is a sample newsletter with D Roses ad on the main site and the Careel bible has, I believe also got instructions.
Katrina C18/200

stunmug
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Postby stunmug » Sat Oct 01, 2005 9:08 am

del
Last edited by stunmug on Thu Feb 02, 2006 5:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Lets do a three sixty and get out of here.

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maxm
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Postby maxm » Sun Oct 02, 2005 11:17 am

Paul,

Go to http://au.groups.yahoo.com/group/careel ... fications/ for a description of how to install one. There are accompanying photos at http://au.photos.groups.yahoo.com/group ... yahoo.com/ although I think you may need to be a member of that forum to view them (which will make life difficult because it's long been closed down).

Maybe if Cherrypuff or Sheavesy are monitoring this thread they may be able to figure out how to open it up to allow viewing by all???
Max
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"It could easily be accomplished viz a coppuder"
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katherinefiona
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Postby katherinefiona » Sun Oct 02, 2005 11:52 am

Here is part of it from the old list.

Notes to accompany photos for installing a Careel Mk I sliding hatch.

Installed in 18/160 "GIGI" October 1997. Notes compiled January 2003.

These notes should not be taken as absolutely correct as they were compiled some years after the event. Please make your own decisions in using them. Good Luck, Bruce & Ray.

Notes for photo 1.
The things you will need.
6 Small clamps to use when gluing the teak strips.
Straight Edge.
Pencil.
Square.
Jigsaw & blades to cut fibreglass.
Battery or electric drill & drill bits.
Step ladder will make for easy access.
Tarpaulin to cover the inside of the boat.
Hammer & small blocks of wood.
Two pieces of wood long enough to fit between the new opening. See photo 9.
Paint scraper or putty knife.
Friend or partner to hold things.
Things to buy.
Strong two pack glue, the best you can get.
Sika Flex to seal screw holes in hatch runners.
Teak strips or timber of your choice as follows.
1st piece is rectangular 45 mm wide x 10 mm thick x minimum 1,2 mtrs long.
2nd piece is rectangular 35 mm wide x 20 mm thick x minimum 1.2 mtrs long.
3rd piece is cover strip with rounded edges 25 mm wide x 10 mm thick x minimum 2,2 mtrs long. (depends how good you are at cutting mitre joints).(not easy in this situation).
A nice piece of waterproof plywood to cut the curved front section strip from.(900 mm long x 150 mm wide x approx.5 or 6 mm thick). See photo 9.
A piece of any waterproof plywood to go in front of the good piece of plywood 900 mm long x 100 mm wide x at least 20 mm thick as you will be putting some screws into it.
A piece of soft plastic or rubber (square or round) 1 metre long to glue in front of the waterproof plywood.
Waterproof plywood to make new top storm board, as the old top one will not be long enough. (you may like to make all new boards).
Notes for photo 2.
Determine where the hatch will fit & mark outline with pencil.
Determine where the slides will be positioned & mark with pencil.
With hammer & paint scraper attempt to loosen the glue that holds the side strips that holds the storm boards. The strips will be grooved to fit over the fibreglass edge.
With blocks of wood & hammer carefully remove the side strips that hold the storm boards. They may break but can be glued back in place when required.
When you are happy with where the hatch will be positioned it is time to start cutting.
Notes for photo 3
Adjust the jigsaw base to allow it to be kept upright. Makes for easier cutting.
Carefully cut along the line making sure the jigsaw blade is perpendicular at all times. You will have to adjust the base when cutting across the cabin.


Notes for photo 4.
When you reach the corners it is easier to cut a round corner rather than a square one. It is easier to cut the corner square later.
You will cut the wire to the fluro light but that is ok as you will be putting new wire into this area.
When you are approx 6 inches from the end of the portside cut it is advisable to cut about 2 inches away from the line so you can locate where the fluro wire is located.
Notes for photo 5.
None that I can think of.
Notes for photo 6.
You can install new wires for the fluro light & also one for the masthead light between the cabin roof & the lining. You can see where the wire goes to the light in the middle where the hole is.
Notes for photo 7.
Notice where the cut was made at the top of the doorway, it is about 1 inch or 30 mm narrower than the doorway with the side jambs off. You will mark the edge of the jambs at the start as this is where you will start cutting from.
Notes for photo 8.
The new wiring goes between the roof & the lining. We did find it difficult to get it down the rear cabin wall but managed with some hard wire first then pulled the softer wire through. Don't forget to put the mast head wire in as well even if you do not intend to use it. Note that the hatch is just sitting in place, as the rails are not in place yet.
Notes for photo 9.
This is the slow part as it takes time for the glue to dry. There are three sections in the finishing strips. The first piece is to cover the fibreglass edge & will also protrude above the cabin roof. The second piece sits on top of the cabin roof & is screwed & glued in place alongside the first piece. The third piece is to cover the screws that hold the second piece. Note do the second piece first. You will need to bevel the bottom edge to keep it perpendicular & keep it as close to the roof as possible.
Do the sides first then the front. The front plywood piece is cut high enough to limit any water coming in between the hatch & the plywood piece. See photo 10. The plastic or rubber piece is glued in place when the front is finished; the thickness will be decided when the hatch is put in place temporarily. Note, when fitting the hatch take care when cutting it to go over the rolled edge of the cabin roof it?s a bit tricky. You may also have to sand the edge of the hatch to enable it to slide easily. As the roof is probably not straight you may have to pack under the runners to make them straight, (stainless washers could do the job ok).
Notes for photo 10.
On the port side of the hatch you can see how the timber is level with the raised rear part of the roof also the rails are in place.
The jambs have been replaced, except for the top of the port side. You will have to make a new top section of the door jambs as the old ones are not long enough.
The light wiring needs to be finished.
Make two small timber blocks (20 mm x 20 mm) to glue on the good piece of plywood to limit the forward movement of the hatch & they also make room to put your fingers behind the hatch edge to close it.
Notes for photo 11.
You will notice that on your first couple of cruises you will still bend down to enter the cabin but will soon get used to not having to bend down. You will certainly enjoy the freedom of standing up to get dressed & wonder why didn?t we get one in sooner.
Don't forget to take photos & make notes.

Yours in Careeling, Bruce Tindale & Ray Barnes.
Last edited by katherinefiona on Sun Oct 02, 2005 11:58 am, edited 1 time in total.
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katherinefiona
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Postby katherinefiona » Sun Oct 02, 2005 11:57 am

I tried to save the photos and send them but failed. Sorry. Maybe someone cleverer than I can do that for you. They are very clear and graphic, and there are 18 of them!

Kate
If nobody had learned to read very few people would be in love.

Ivana

Postby Ivana » Mon Oct 03, 2005 2:14 pm


theboats
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Re: Installing sliding hatches in QLD. Whom?

Postby theboats » Sat Mar 04, 2017 6:35 am

I know this is an old post but does anyone have the photos or a link?

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maxm
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Re: Installing sliding hatches in QLD. Whom?

Postby maxm » Sat Mar 04, 2017 7:49 am

Boats, try this link. It should take you to an old photo album in the Yahoo groups that's mentioned earlier in this thread. Looks like Yahoo keep moving things around but it's still there. https://au.groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/ ... /297063727

There's accompanying text for those photos that you can download here http://au.groups.yahoo.com/group/careel ... fications/

There should also be some discussion of it somewhere in that group. If you use the Search feature it should turn up. There's a wealth of info in Yahoo which predates this site.
Max
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Mitsubishi PC Challenger auto

"It could easily be accomplished viz a coppuder"
(Dr Strangelove)

theboats
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Re: Installing sliding hatches in QLD. Whom?

Postby theboats » Sun Mar 05, 2017 6:26 am

Links take you to what appears to be an empty group. Would you mind checking the links to see if they are working for you. It would be a shame if these pictures were lost.

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maxm
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Re: Installing sliding hatches in QLD. Whom?

Postby maxm » Sun Mar 05, 2017 8:19 am

The links are valid but you probably need to be a member of the group to be able to see posts. You can try to join the group by emailing:

careelers-subscribe AT yahoogroups DOT com DOT au

but I've no idea if that will still work.
Max
C22/54 "Katrina II"
Mitsubishi PC Challenger auto

"It could easily be accomplished viz a coppuder"
(Dr Strangelove)

theboats
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Re: Installing sliding hatches in QLD. Whom?

Postby theboats » Wed Mar 08, 2017 1:10 pm

Doesn't seem to be working. Not able to subscribe. Does anyone have suggestions on accessing the pictures? Is the original poster still a member of the forum?

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maxm
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Re: Installing sliding hatches in QLD. Whom?

Postby maxm » Fri Mar 10, 2017 4:57 pm

There is a post in this thread that describes the process of installing a sliding hatch. Looking at the photos in Yahoo, I don't think there's any relationship to that text because the photos are for Kates' boat "Silkie" whereas the text was for Bruce's boat "Gigi". The Yahoo photos certainly don't show much in the way of detail (photo of someone cutting through the deck with an electric jigsaw, photo of Vern routing a slot into some teak. That kind of thing). I don't know that they'll really help much but for what it's worth, I've downloaded them and posted them on Google Photos. You should be able to see them via this link

https://goo.gl/photos/MNeQN3xvAjnTBSot9
Max
C22/54 "Katrina II"
Mitsubishi PC Challenger auto

"It could easily be accomplished viz a coppuder"
(Dr Strangelove)

theboats
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Re: Installing sliding hatches in QLD. Whom?

Postby theboats » Thu Mar 16, 2017 12:44 pm

Thanks for the pictures.


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