cleaning topsides

Generally Sailing Talk
Drifter
Captain
Posts: 67
Joined: Fri Oct 09, 2015 9:25 am

Re: cleaning topsides

Postby Drifter » Sat Feb 25, 2017 6:01 pm

No worries, all good. Thanks for your help

Drifter
Captain
Posts: 67
Joined: Fri Oct 09, 2015 9:25 am

Re: cleaning topsides

Postby Drifter » Thu Mar 16, 2017 11:08 pm

Hi everyone,

I have managed to sand back and spray paint the waterline/boot stripe and it looks beautiful! I am now going to use the 3M fiberglass cleaner and restorer. Should I buff over the new painted waterline stripe or should I mask over the paint and just wax over the paintwork? Concerned if I buff over the paint it may run over the gelcoat and cause streaking but not sure as I have never done it before. Sorry to rant on just trying to avoid causing problems that's all. Well and truely time for my old careel to feel young and shiny again!

Cheers,
Ben
(Drifter C18/137)

Woz
Captain
Posts: 75
Joined: Sun Jul 01, 2012 5:54 pm

Re: cleaning topsides

Postby Woz » Fri Mar 17, 2017 6:05 am

Ben

I have just painted the waterline stripe on my boat. It has come up a treat as well. I was told you have to let the paint harden for a while before polishing the boat. A few weeks may be ok, A phone call to the paint company help line would answer your question.

I am in the process of removing the gunwale timber to get to the hull deck join and to reseal it. The old mastic/silicone placed when the boat was built has dried and a gentle push with a knife, the stuff cracks and falls out.

Warwick

C18/226

No Way
Old Fart
Posts: 149
Joined: Thu Aug 04, 2005 10:33 pm
Location: sydney/myall lakes

Re: cleaning topsides

Postby No Way » Fri Mar 17, 2017 10:56 am

Woz
The gunwhale join has no sealant in it. Investigate the following before you take the teak trim off. When the deck is installed the flange joint has a polyester/talc putty mix to locate and fill the joint evenly. Pop rivets hold it together while the "bog" goes off. Apart from gunwhale damage or knocks the teak trim which is epoxy glued and screwed will hold this together. The join is then fiberglass taped hull to deck on the inside from the bow(including over the breast plate) to as far as practicable down the side of each cockpit locker. As the lockers are joined to the deck before assembly to the hull all of the gunwhale cannot be reached from inside. If you are getting a leak one of two things is happening and they are linked. One: After all these years water is getting in to the unglassed part of the join (low chance) or two: the glass strapping has failed or been damaged at some stage - failure would most likely be in the area near the chain plates. Any leak where water gets into the void behind the taped joint would possibly come into the boat if the glasswork behind the lockers hasn't been sealed of properly.

Woz
Captain
Posts: 75
Joined: Sun Jul 01, 2012 5:54 pm

Re: cleaning topsides

Postby Woz » Fri Mar 17, 2017 3:03 pm

No Way

The putty was brittle and cracked away in parts along the join with some gaps 3mm+ in parts. The fibreglass tape is intact all along the inside of the boat but the water comes out at the back where the fibreglass tape ends just short of the lockers.
I have hosed the gunwale area with a hose, and the water was running out along the tape.
The final straw was when we tried to sail down to meet the Southport fleet, up to 20 knots and 1.5m seas for 42 nautical miles. (reefed main). All the bunk cushions were wet, quite a few litres on water bailed out and we the only spot we could see the water coming in was at the back of the fibreglass tape. The boat handled the conditions beautifully.
So far the teak has come off surprisingly easy and still in one piece just take your time and don't rush it, the epoxy has gone brittle over time and just fell away.
I will drill out the rivots, clean out the join and seal it up with a adhesive sealant suitable for the job (advised by boat builder), then put it all back together.
The hardest part so far has been getting the 4 bolts out of the teak at bow.
Of note is the bow plate for the furler and anchor roller which is only held on with 2 x half inch screws and two bolt through the gunwale join right on the bow. This area needs to be checked on all boats and bolted through the deck and tied to the back of the u bolt used for retrieving the boat onto the trailer.
It is a big job and hopefully I will have a dry boat at the end of it.

Warwick
C18/226

Woz
Captain
Posts: 75
Joined: Sun Jul 01, 2012 5:54 pm

Re: cleaning topsides

Postby Woz » Sat Apr 01, 2017 11:02 pm

An up date on the gunwale reseal

On the port side I almost removed the teak gunwale, I could not get the teak to lift right at the bow so I left it in place,( the teak was still in one piece) ground out the damaged putty and resealed it with adhesive silicone, then reinstalled the teak. No real problems just take your time. I set the boat up so the bow was lower than the stern so the epoxy would run down the void. I then brought a semi flexible epoxy resin as quite a free flowing mix, drilled a couple of holes in the fibreglass tape one half way along the front window and the other just short of the end of the fibreglass tape and pumped the epoxy into the void. The epoxy would flow down the void and seal the bow where I could not get to. The port side worked well with no epoxy running out of the void.

The starboard side I did not remove the teak trim but just pumped the epoxy into the void, the void leaked like a sieve at the bow with the epoxy running out onto the ground from under the teak gunwale trim and some pin holes on the inside and in the anchor well. A quick fix with some duct tape worked while the epoxy set.
I now hove epoxy in the void on both sides up to the chain plates and hopefully a dry boat.

Problems encounted and precautions.

I should have run some duct tape along the teak/hull join to seal up this joint before starting.
Have plenty of rags and acetone handy.
Take your time pumping the epoxy into the void and do not try to do it in one go, I think three seperate goes at would be better.
I brought the epoxy from a epoxy specialist who could supply a semi flexible epoxy mix suitable to flow through the void and this worked a treat. A lot cheaper than a marine supplier and I could get exactly what I wanted.
The Pump was a lubricant hand pump from Super Cheap and thrown away after one use.

It is a big messy job, but one way to fix a leaky boat.

Warwick
C18#226


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