Riv-nuts for deck fittings etc

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byrdsworth
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Riv-nuts for deck fittings etc

Postby byrdsworth » Mon Nov 07, 2016 10:18 am

Hi All

Just came across these riv-nuts ...

how do you think these would go for deck fittings on fibreglass boats ?

especially where there is an inner lining

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZEDBz3gIS-g


Cheers
Byrds
C18 #457 "Skye Mist"

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Mark III Amigo
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Re: Riv-nuts for deck fittings etc

Postby Mark III Amigo » Mon Nov 07, 2016 9:23 pm

Interesting.

I've drilled through outer and inner lining to fit slides on the cabin roof for inboard sheeting.

Going thru both adds some security/strength.

Using these you rely on a single layer.

I'd like to know how one could get some stiffness through that air gap, mine flexes quite a bit.

don47
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Re: Riv-nuts for deck fittings etc

Postby don47 » Tue Nov 08, 2016 6:53 am

That's why the handle or grab rail position Dave or right along side was utilised (plus it absolutely suited for setup-sheeting angle), to give some backing support. However, I think it likely to be a slight diff from boat to boat from what I notice & even a diff inboard measurement/position for the built in support. An internal 8-10 x 25-30mm thick strip (under ceiling) of hardwood thru bolted seems to arrest any flex. Much bigger job to insert suitable between ceiling or cab top if was necessary.
I'm sure the riv-nuts would come in handy for certain lighter work applications eg. fiiting rope bags or like but I'd prefer backing ( timber or washer/nylocks) strength in the higher load areas myself.
Don.

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Re: Riv-nuts for deck fittings etc

Postby maxm » Tue Nov 08, 2016 7:33 am

Like Don, I think those bolts could be good for light work but not so hot for a job where there's a fair bit of load.

Mark III Amigo wrote:Interesting.

I've drilled through outer and inner lining to fit slides on the cabin roof for inboard sheeting.
...
I'd like to know how one could get some stiffness through that air gap, mine flexes quite a bit.


For your slides, if you've drilled through both layers (plus the air gap) of the cabin roof and installed a bolt and nut inside the cabin then what you're doing is putting the load on the head liner inside the cabin. That's a fairly thin bit of glass and so you get flexing. It's not really an improvement in strength because the outer layer should be thicker and have backing and that's what you want to carry the load. So think about drilling a bigger hole through just the cabin head liner, one that's big enough for the nut (and preferably a big washer) to pass through. You can then use a shorter bolt and do the nut (and washer) up against the underneath of the upper layer so that it's the bit that is taking the load. You can then cover up the hole in the head liner with a plastic tube end from the harware shop and end up with a nice, neat finish.
Max
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byrdsworth
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Re: Riv-nuts for deck fittings etc

Postby byrdsworth » Tue Nov 08, 2016 8:09 am

Tend to agree with the bolting through plan

I posted the same message on TSP and there was one guy who used riv-nuts for rope clutches with no problems

Max ... I was thinking along the same lines as you ...
Maybe cutting out areas of the inner lining to allow access and using some white plastic sheet to make covers for these areas
sort of like a small access plate ...

Is there just air between the inner and the roof ?

The new journey begins ... should be fun

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Byrds
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maxm
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Re: Riv-nuts for deck fittings etc

Postby maxm » Tue Nov 08, 2016 8:13 am

Yeah, I gather it's an air gap between the two layers. Probably not a large gap but large enough for the wire to the cabin light to sit in. If I remember right, I believe they install that wire just before putting the head liner in place. Mind you, very early Mk I's don't have a head liner so I've no idea what the story there is!
Max
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Mitsubishi PC Challenger auto

"It could easily be accomplished viz a coppuder"
(Dr Strangelove)

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byrdsworth
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Re: Riv-nuts for deck fittings etc

Postby byrdsworth » Tue Nov 08, 2016 9:06 am

Thanks Max

So if the gap is only minimal ... then should be ok to drill right through and as Don suggested reinforce with a timber strip
or maybe some high density plastic (chopping Board) tightening up should bring the 2 skins together

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Byrds
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Re: Riv-nuts for deck fittings etc

Postby don47 » Tue Nov 08, 2016 10:32 am

If you affix anything that is going to take strong loads its got to be fixed strongly of course.
The gap generally thru out the cab top & ceiling is usually filled with a foam spacer material approx. 20-25 mm for memory in the 3.
You'll find some extra support timber however as said thru at grab rail/handle points & even has extra thickness on ceiling with glassed in timber or at least that's the case with mine which was 3rd 3 produced. Suggest you remove some screw/s (about100mm long) from underside of ceiling that reach up thru to grab & check then make up your mind for your application/job. Of course a longer length of support offers more strength than a round washer or small block of wood or alloy plate all depending on what you 're fastening down & its location ie.is it in open space with no other support or f/g shape or strength nearby. One could easily cut a slot in ceiling if needs be too & fit long length of support then cover up with cover stripping.
Grabs on the earlier mk1 are usually only glued & screwed thru roof skin from above & its easy to beef up that situation from interior if required.
Certainly,, I don't get any flexing as Dave explains nor would I appreciate flex for a number of reasons but, none so important as that of I don't want the track or other fitting ripped off or out. Am I correct in stating/remembering however that Dave you haven't got any length of track or similar to spread load over area & that you are just sheeting back to a swivel eye & cleat. If that case I understand your flexing issue.
Don.

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Mark III Amigo
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Re: Riv-nuts for deck fittings etc

Postby Mark III Amigo » Tue Nov 08, 2016 6:21 pm

In my mark 3 it's an air gap, between inner and outer. The inner has reinforced piece. Steel slides where handrail used to be. I've wired new Nav lights through that air gap.

I'm thinking cutting inner out, grassing in a wood brace and fibreglass back in inner would be the go.

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Re: Riv-nuts for deck fittings etc

Postby Ukuri » Tue Nov 08, 2016 9:34 pm

byrdsworth wrote:Hi All

Just came across these riv-nuts ...

how do you think these would go for deck fittings on fibreglass boats ?

especially where there is an inner lining

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZEDBz3gIS-g


Cheers
Byrds

I don't think you would be able to adequately make them waterproof and you would risk getting water in behind the inner lining.

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Re: Riv-nuts for deck fittings etc

Postby shane0007 » Thu Jan 05, 2017 6:42 pm

I use riv-nuts in my trade in heavy vehicle repairs they will not do they will pull out at the most in opptune time ,a jack nut would be slightly better.


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